1 — Block Fusing and Pre-Pressing

Depending on your fabric you may choose to interface the collar, upper placket and under placket pieces.

This can be done by block fusing or piece fusing.

Block fusing is a fusing technique whereby you apply your interfacing to a section of fabric prior to cutting out the pattern pieces. It helps avoid interfacing slippage and stops your pattern pieces from stretching out of shape, and therefore ensures accuracy. It also means you only need to cut your pieces out once. Block fusing does require you to group all the pattern pieces requiring interfacing together when you cut out your pattern however, so you may require additional fabric.

If you do not wish to block fuse, you can piece fuse these pattern pieces. This means cutting out each pattern piece in both interfacing and your main fabric and then applying the interfacing to each piece separately. If you choose to piece fuse keep your pattern pieces close by for reference and make sure they don’t stretch out of shape.

Fold the collar piece in half with the wrong sides together at the notch and press.

Take the sleeves and fold the cuff edge over 1cm to the wrong side and press. Fold the cuff edge over another 6cm to the wrong side as indicated by the notches, and press. The finished cuff depth is 6cm.

Fold the hem of the front over 1cm to the wrong side and press. Then, as indicated by the notches, fold the hem up another 6cm to the wrong side and press. The finished hem depth is 6cm.

Fold the hem of the back over 1cm to the wrong side and press. Then, as indicated by the notches, fold the hem up another 6cm to the wrong side and press. The finished hem depth is 6cm.

Fold the top of the pocket over 1cm to the wrong side and press. Then, as indicated by the notches, fold the hem up another 3cm to the wrong side and press. The finished depth will measure 3cm.

Next up, we will sew the shirt front, including the placket and the pocket.