2 — Constructing the Backs and Jet Pockets

Take your back leg pieces and neaten centre back and inner leg edges separately. Sew the two darts on the back trouser piece. Press the darts towards the centre back.

Apply the jet pocket opening interfacing as indicated on the Jet Pocket Template to the wrong side of the pants. Take your time to centre your interfacing over the dart points exactly. The fusing should extend 3.5cm either side of the dart points and 1.6cm above and below. Repeat for the other side.

Fold and pin your jet pieces in half with the wrong sides together and stitch them closed with a 6mm seam.

Fold your button loop pieces in half and give them a press. Open out again then bring the outer edges to meet in the centre and then fold them in half again lengthwise. Edgestitch to close then fold them into a 'U' shape.

Now we will sew the pocket bags. Start by sewing the darts at both ends of the jet pocket bag with the wrong sides together. The dart excess will be on the right side of the pocket bag.

Neaten the long, unnotched edge of the jet pocket bearer with your overlocker or preferred method. Now, pin the jet pocket bearer to the pocket bag. The wrong side of the jet pocket bearer to the right side of the pocket bag, matching up the notches. Edgestitch in place the pocket bearer in place around all four sides.

Transfer the jet pocket opening markings from the Jet Pocket Template to the right side of your back trouser piece. The line will go through the dart points and extend 2.5cm past each dart point, measuring 13cm in total. Transfer the same marking to the right side of your jet pocket bag. Make sure you use chalk or a pen that comes off easily once you’re finished so you're not left with marks.

With the back leg in front of you, right side up, place the button loop, folded as shown, in the centre of the pocket opening. Use your Jet Pocket Template as a guide. Line the raw edges up with the slash line and baste in place.

Now we will place the jet pieces. Line up the raw edge of the jet piece with the pocket opening line you marked earlier. The notches on the jet will align with the ends of the pocket opening line. Ensure that all edges line up and everything is centred then pin your jet piece in place. Sew the jet with a 6mm seam, starting and stopping exactly at the notches. It can help to mark the end of your stitching on the jet pieces to make sure you stop at the right place. Repeat for the second jet piece.

Next, lay your jet pocket bag on top of the jets with the right side down. The jet pocket bearer will be towards the hem of the pants, facing down. Pin the pocket bag in place and then sew the pocket down along the same lines as the jet pieces.

Now we will cut the pocket opening. Using a pair of sharp scissors, cut through both the pocket bag and the pant leg along the slash line, finishing 1cm before each end. You may find it easier to cut each layer separately. Next, clip into the corners through all layers. Get as close as you can to your stitching without cutting through it.

Pull the pocket and the ends of the jet pieces through to the wrong side.

Neaten the raw edge of the lower jet with your overlocker. Make sure you hold the pocket bag and back leg piece out of the way so they don’t get caught!

Fold back your trouser leg piece and the pocket bag to find the little triangle that was created when you cut the pocket open. Wriggle the jet pieces so they sit flat, with the folded edges touching and the short ends even. Pull the triangle tab so it sits as flat as possible without distorting the fabric. Now, stitch the triangle to the jet pocket bag and jet pieces, back tacking to secure. Repeat for the other side of the pocket.

Press your jet pocket, making sure everything is lying flat.

Next, we will sew the pocket bag. Fold your trouser leg to fit inside the upper section of the pocket bag piece.

Fold the pocket bag in half with the wrong sides together and sew each side closed with a 6mm seam. Trim the seam back to 3mm, taking care not to get too close to your stitching.

Pull the back leg out through the opening at the waist of the pocket bag.

Press the pocket bag and stitch each seam again at 6mm to form a French seam. Baste the top of the pocket bag to the top edge of the back leg piece. Now give your pocket bag another press!

With the leg face up, edge stitch around the top three sides of the jet pocket to secure it to the pocket bag.

Give your jet pocket a final press - you've finished! Now repeat the steps for the other side then move on to sewing the fronts!