Ivy Dress + Top Sew Along
3 — Neckline and Collars
18—May 2021
The Ivy Dress + Top pattern has three different neckline options, a Round Neck, Peter Pan Collar, and a Tie Back Collar. Jump to the section that matches the collar style you are sewing!
In this post, we will go over the three neckline and collar options. Skip ahead to the option you are sewing.
With the right sides together, sew one top collar piece to an under collar piece around the long, curved edge.
Trim the seam to 6mm around the curved edges.
Now, Fold the seam allowance at centre back end towards the under collar. Pin the centre back and then sew the centre back seam, catching the seam allowance as you sew.
Turn the collar right side out and under stitch at centre back for as far as you can comfortably sew, and along the outer collar where the collar will sit over the shoulder. Give it a press, rolling the collar piece slightly towards under collar as you go.
Repeat for the other side to make a pair of collars.
Pin and then baste the collar to the neck edge, with under collar facing the right side of the bodice. The centre back of the collar will align with the notch at centre back on the bodice.
The two collar pieces will meet at the centre front notch. Sew the collar pieces to the bodice, just inside the seam allowance.
Now continue on to sew the neck facing.
Start following along here if you are sewing the round neck option. The Peter Pan collar is shown in some photos, but the process is exactly the same!
We first need to the centre back seam on the neck facing. Fold the facing in half with the right sides together and from the notch to the lower edge. Now, then press the seam open.
Neaten the outer edge of your facing then, with right sides together, pin the neck facing to the bodice at centre back. Sew each centre back edge together with a 1cm seam, starting at the neck edge and finishing at the notch.
Next, fold the neck facing out and understitch on each side of the centre back opening.
Turn the facing back, so it is right sides together with the bodice again. Fold the seam allowance at the centre back towards the facing and then pin the neck facing to the bodice around the neck edge.
Sew around the neck edge with a 1cm seam.
Clip the neck curve with approximately 1cm spacings. Be careful not to cut through your stitching!
Turn the facing to the wrong using a point turner to help you at the centre back if you need.
Under stitch around the neck edge on the facing. You won’t be able to under stitch right to centre back, just sew as close as you can. Give your neckline a press.
At the centre back, fold back the neck facing and sew the facing seam allowance to the bodice seam allowance to secure it. Be careful not to catch your bodice when sewing.
Ditch stitch at each shoulder seam to secure the neck facing to the bodice. If you are sewing the Peter Pan collar, take care not to catch your collar securing the facing.
Next move to sewing the sleeve placket if you are sewing a long sleeved option, or move on to this post if you are sewing your Ivy sleeveless or with short sleeves!
If you are sewing the Tie Back Collar, start following along here!
With the right sides together, stitch the back neck facing at centre back from the notch to the lower edge. Press the seam open, then neaten the long out edge and shoulder.
With right sides together, pin the centre back neck facing to back bodice. Now sew the edges together.
Next, turn the facing right side out, then under stitch each edge at the centre back opening.
At the centre back, fold back the neck facing and sew the facing seam allowance to the bodice seam allowance to secure it.
Stitch the back neck facing to the front bodice shoulder seam allowance and then baste the facing to the bodice at the back neckline.
Sew a line stitching at 1cm between the notches, on one side only. This stitching is a guide for folding under the seam allowance to help ensure a tidy finish when you close up the collar.
Pin the collar to the bodice on the unstitched side, with the right side of the collar, to the wrong side of the bodice, matching the notches. Sew at 1cm then press the seam towards the collar.
Fold the tie collar in half right sides together and pin. Then, stitch the ends closed. Do the same for both ties.
Trim the curves and turn right side out. Give your ties a press.
Fold the collar seam allowance under 1cm, using the line of stitching to guide you and pin it in place. Now, edge stitch the collar closed.
Your collar is complete! Now move to Sewing the Sleeve Plackett, or Sleeveless and Short Sleeve, depending on the view you are sewing!
Check out the Ivy Dress + Top pattern in our Online Store here. Don't forget you can always email us via [email protected] if you need advice!
Ivy makes from our wonderful community are also popping up over on Instagram, follow @makebytfs and use #TFSIvyDress or #TFSIvyTop so others can check out your creations!
