4 — Long Sleeves

We will start by sewing the sleeve placket binding. Using a ruler and tailor’s chalk or a fabric pen, mark your slash line from the notch at the wrist to the X mark

Cut up the slash line to the X mark. Be careful not cut past the centre of the X or your opening will be too long for the sleeve placket binding.

Lay the sleeve placket binding right side up, then place the sleeve on top, also right side up. The cut edge of the sleeve split aligns with the long edge of the sleeve placket binding at each end.

The top of the split is set back 8mm from the binding edge. Pin your sleeve placket in place.

Sew a seam 1cm from the edge of the sleeve placket binding, until you reach the top of the split. The seam allowance on the sleeve starts at 1cm, and reduces to 2mm at the top of the split. Stop with your needle down at the top of the split, adjust your fabric, and then continue sewing to the other end.

This is how your placket will look once it is sewn.

Fold the binding to enclose the raw edge, tucking the 1cm seam allowance of the placket binding under. Pin it in place.

Edge stitch the placket binding closed from the right side.

Your sleeve placket binding will now look like this.

Fold the binding in half with the right sides of the sleeve together. Stitch diagonally across the fold in the binding.

Fold the upper binding (the placket binding attached to the wide side of the sleeve) under to the wrong side, then baste in place. Gently give your sleeve placket binding a press.

Repeat for the other sleeve so you have a pair of sleeves!

The next step is sewing your cuffs and attaching the sleeves.