3 — Sleeves, Under Collar and Side Seams

Press the seam open and repeat for the other sleeve.

Now pin the front sleeve to the front, right sides together and matching the notches. Sew at 1cm.

Next, pin the back sleeve to the back with the right sides together and matching the notches. Sew at 1cm.

Repeat for the other sleeve and then press all four seams open.

At each corner on the front sew a line of stitching 1cm from the edge to reinforce corners where the collar turns on each front. Clip into the corner to release the seam allowance. This will allow you to manoeuvre the pieces when sewing the collar.

With the right sides together and matching the notches, pin the under collar to the main coat body. Start by pinning the under collar to the coat body across the back and sleeves.

When you reach the corner, turn and pin the short edge of the under collar to the top of the lapel, stopping at the notch.

Your under collar will look like this from the other side.

Starting the notch at one end of the under collar, sew the two pieces together with a 1cm seam.

When you reach a corner, stop with your needle down and raise the presser foot. Pivot, and rearrange your coat so that the seam you are going to sew is laying flat, then continue sewing to the next corner. Stop with your needle and rearrange your coat again. Now continue sewing to the end of the under collar.

Press the seam open. The corners of the under collar will need to be folded to help the seam to sit open flat.

Repeat for the other side and then press the seams open.

Your Poppy Coat outer is now complete! Now move on to sewing the lining.