4 — Sewing the Skirt

Next we will construct the skirt back. With right sides together pin one skirt side piece to the back centre skirt piece, matching the notches. Overlock
together then repeat for the other side. Press the seams towards the sides.

On your sewing machine and using the longest stitch your sewing machine has, run two parallel lines of basting stitches 6mm apart at the waist edge. Start and finish 1cm in from the side seams to allow for the seam allowance. Next, pull the bobbin threads to gather the skirt.

Gather your skirt until it is the same width as the waist edge of the bodice back.

Now we will sew the skirt front, beginning with the side seam pockets.

Place one pocket bag onto the front with the right sides together and pin together at notches marked ‘pocket opening’. Stitch a box with your sewing machine using a straight or stretch stitch (if your machine has the capability), from notch to notch, from the outside edge in towards the pocket bag 1cm.
With needle down, turn 90 degrees and continue stitching at 1cm, parallel to the edge. Stitch down to line up with the lower notch, turn back towards outside and stitch towards the edge. You will have created a stitched box along the pocket opening.

Next, you need to mitre into the upper and lower corners of the box. Do this by snipping into each corner at a 45-degree angle, using very sharp scissors and taking care not to cut into your stitch line.

Press the seam along the pocket opening and then understitch on the pocket from corner to corner.

Fold the entire pocket bag over towards the wrong side of the fabric and press again. Place the second pocket bag on top, right sides together. Pin it in place matching the notches.

Now, overlock the pocket bags together around the long, curved edge. Then baste the pocket bag to the skirt front on each side of the pocket opening. Repeat for the other side.

With the right sides together, pin one front side panel to the front centre panel, matching the notches. Overlock them together and then repeat for the other front side panel. Press the seams towards the sides.

As you did with the back, run two parallel lines of basting stitches, 6mm apart at the waist edge of the skirt front. Start and finish 1cm before the side seam to allow for the seam allowances. Next, pull the bobbin threads to gather the skirt until it is the same width as the waist edge on the front bodice.

Now we will attach the skirt front to the skirt back.

With the right sides together, pin the skirt front to the skirt back at the side seams. With your sewing machine, sew your front to the back along the pocket edge only with a 1 cm seam. Use a straight stitch, or a stretch stitch if your machine has the capability. This helps to give a nice finish at the pocket where it can be a bit tricky to get your overlocker in close.

Now overlock the side seam. Keep your gathering threads free from the seam in case you need to adjust things a bit later on. Repeat for the other side seam and press the seams towards the back.

You are now ready to assemble your dress!