9 — Sewing the Hems

Pin the front placket to hold it in place then stitch the front placket in place 1.2cm from the hem edge. You may wish to mark this line on before you sew. Repeat for the other side, but don't turn the hem out just yet!

The shirt hem is finished with a 6mm double folded hem. To make this easier, sew a line of stitching at 6mm, the entire length of the hem.

Next, fold back the hem 6mm to the wrong side at the centre front corner, along the line of stitching you have just sewn. Then, fold the hem under another 6mm to the wrong side. This fold will be in line with the seam you sewed at 1.2cm.

Now, holding your double folded hem in place, turn out the corner so the centre front placket is now folded to the wrong side.

You can use a point turner to ensure you get a tidy looking corner, then pin to hold the folded hem in place. Repeat for the other side.

Now it is time to sew your hem. Working from the wrong side, and starting from one corner edge stitch the hem in place. You can fold the hem as you're sewing, using the 6mm line of stitching to guide. Remember to keep your needle down when you stop to fold so your shirt doesn't move.

Alternatively, you can fold, press, and pin your entire hem before you start sewing.

Give your hem a press then move on to the final step, sewing the buttons and buttonholes!

Staying at the centre front, fold back the 1cm hem seam allowance to the wrong side, then fold up another 8cm right sides together. This is the opposite direction to what you pressed at the beginning. Stitch the front edge of the hem closed with a 1cm seam, catching the seam allowance as you sew.

Now move to the front side seam and fold back the 1cm seam allowance to the wrong side, then fold up the hem 8 cm, right sides together. Sew the edge closed with a 1cm seam, catching the seam allowance as you sew.

Then, carefully clip into the vent extension 1cm, just above the hem edge. Be sure to keep your back piece folded out of the way!

Now, turn your hem out so the right sides are together, using a point turner to help you with the corners. Keeping the 1cm seam allowance folded in, fold the entire hem up 8cm. The pressing you did at the start will help you here. Pin the hem, then edge stitch it closed, taking care not to catch your back piece.

Repeat for the other front.

We will now finish the side vents. Wrap the front vent extension around the back side seam allowance to enclose the raw edge.

Give your folded vent a press and pin in place.

Now, fold the 1cm seam allowance to the wrong side, then fold up the 8cm seam allowance right sides together. Sew the edge with a 1cm seam, catching the seam allowance as you sew. Repeat for the other side.

Now turn out your back hem so the wrong sides are together, using a point turner to help you.

Working with the wrong side facing up, fold the front out of the way and edge stitch the hem closed.

Now it is time to finish the side seams above the vent openings. The side seam allowance will go towards the back, and the vent will open towards the front. Transfer the top stitching markings from the pattern on to your garment with tailor's chalk or a fabric pen, and move your pins to the front so they are easy to remove when you are sewing. Make sure the vent extension is still wrapped around the side seam on the wrong side.

Working with the right side up, and starting at the top of the vent extension at the side seam, top stitch the vent extension in place. Run your stitching a couple of stitches past the hem seam to hold the vent in place.

Repeat for the other side then give your hem a press.

Now, move on to the final step, sewing your buttons and buttonholes!