5 — Assemble and Hem

Next we will sew the side seams. With the right sides together, pin the font piece to the back at the side seam. Sew together then neaten the raw with your overlocker, or preferred method. Press the seam to the back. Repeat for both sides.

Next we will attach the belt loops and waistband. You might find it easiest to work with your skirt inside out when completing these steps.

First attach the belt loops. We placed two belt loops on the front, one at the centre pleat on each side of centre front. At the back, we placed four belt loops, one at the inverted pleat, and one at the pleat closest to the side seam on each side. Pin your belt loops, then baste them in place at the waist edge. Next, secure your belt loops by sewing 2cm from the raw edge, back tacking at the beginning and end of your stitching.

Now, pin your waistband to your skirt with the right sides together, matching the notches and leaving your waistband facing free. Sew the waistband to your skirt with a 1cm seam allowance.

Press the seam you have just sewn up, into the waistband. Pin the facing to the waistband to close the waist seam. Ensure that everything is laid flat. It can help to pin each side separately, working from the centre front to the centre back. Fold the bias binding on the waistband facing seam allowance back at each so it doesn't catch in the zip and to give a tidy finish.

Now, enclose the waistband by stitching in the ditch from the right side. Start and finish at the centre back, making sure to catch the facing on the underside, and that you are keeping the belt loops out of the way as you sew.

To finish your belt loops, fold the free end of the loops under 1cm. Next, pin them in place so the folded edge is flush with the top of the waistband.

Now secure your belt loops in place at the top with a row of stitching, back tacking at the beginning and end. Flatten the belt loop and secure the bottom edge with stitching in the same way as the top. Repeat for all belt loops.

Next we will sew the hem. At the bottom of your skirt, fold under and press up the 1cm seam allowance, then fold up another 8cm for the hem. The pressing you did at the beginning will help here. Edge stitch your hem to close it up and give it a press. You're nearly finished!

To complete your skirt assembly, sew a buttonhole on the waistband tab. This is the left hand side of your skirt as it is worn. Use the Buttonhole Placement Template to help you. If your button varies in size to the recommended, you will need to adjust the length of your buttonhole accordingly. Sew a button on the righthand side of the waistband, opposite your buttonhole.

Clip your threads and give your August Skirt a final press. You're all finished!