2 — Welt Pockets

Fold the pocket welts in half with the wrong sides together. Sew each welt closed with a 1cm seam.

Pin the pocket bearer to the pocket bag, right sides together. Sew them together with a 1cm seam and press the seam towards the pocket bag. Repeat for the other pocket bag and pocket bearer to create a pair.

Using the front pattern pieces to guide you, mark out the welt pocket opening on the right side of the coat front. You can use tailor’s chalk, a fabric pen or, hand basting stitches. Just make sure whichever you choose will not leave marks on your fabric when you are finished.

Mark the ends of the stitching line on the welt piece using tailor’s chalk or your preferred marking method. This is 1cm in from each short end.

Pin the welt piece to the front, aligning the marked stitching lines. The folded edge of the welt will point down and towards centre front. The raw edges will point up and towards the side seam.

Next, mark the stitching line on the wrong side of the pocket bearer, 1cm from the edge. Pin the pocket bearer to the front along the stitching line, the right sides together.

Sew the pocket bearer along the stitch line at 1cm, starting and finishing exactly at each end of the stitching line. This is 1cm from each end.

Cut the welt pocket open through the centre of the pocket opening, finishing 2cm before each end. Then clip into each corner to create a ‘Y’ shape. Be careful not to clip past the stitching, or through your stitching.

Pull the welt and pocket bag through to the wrong side.

Fold the pocket back to reveal the triangle that was formed when you cut the pocket open. Gently pull it so it sits flat and pin it to the welt. Sew the triangle and the welt together along the edge of the pocket opening you marked at the beginning of this step. Do the same for the other side of the pocket. Give your pocket a press and check that all is sitting nicely.

Next, fold the pocket bag in half with the right sides together. Pin the free end of the pocket bag to the raw edge of the welt then sew them together.

Pin the sides of the pockets together, then sew closed with a 1cm seam.

Give your pocket another press.

Repeat for the other side, to create a pair of pockets.

In the next post we will attach the sleeves and under collar, then sew the side seams.